Monday, January 11, 2016

Building An Outdoor Kitchen: #2 Framing The Walls And Roof



In the last post I showed how we put in the block walls and concrete counter and integral sink,
now we will start framing.

This 3 part series to date:
Please read on.




For the walls I had some rough cut 2"x 10"x 4' ponderosa from a teardown 
that I cut down to a full 4" wide for a solid wall as well as a 2"x 6" redwood plate
 that was bolted to the masonry with a sheet metal termite shield
 and asphalt paper between the plate and the masonry.


The roof is a standard framed dutch hip almost exactly like the one I profiled in an earlier post:

The rafters (16" o.c.) are set on a continuous header of 2 fir 2"x 6"s
 blocked together with a 1" ribbing to match the full 4" width of the walls.
There are no top plates.  

As you can see above I like to use lots of blocking between the rafters.
Over the header there are two sets of blocks that
 substantially increase the strength of the header and rafters,
 and keep birds from nesting on the top of the header.


Since the underside of the roof is exposed I added cross ties every 32" 
to keep the roof from exerting outward pressure on the walls.

The blocking at the top of the rafters and along the 2"x 6" ridge board
 negate the need for metal rafter hangers.
It is a shame that builders today don't do blocking 
because of the extra time involved (time is money)
as it increases the strength of the frame a lot 
and uses scraps of lumber to great advantage (less waste).


A 1"x 6" rough cut fascia has been put on with a metal drip edge added at the eaves
 (left side of above photo).

I used 3/8" plywood over the rafters with 15# building paper over that and furring strips on top.
The furring strips have grooves cut on their bottom 
so condensation on the underneath of the galvanized corrugated roofing can drain away.
They also keep the bottom of the metal roofing drier 
so rusting does not occur on the metal from underneath.
Since the plywood decking is only 3/8",
 the furring strips provide the added depth to conceal the roofing screws
 that I use to attach the corrugated galvanized metal roof.


Above you can see the roof is finished and the gutters are up.

I added more blocking to the wall framing to prevent racking 
(because of the large expanse of windows and open space),
and then put 3/8" plywood on the exterior walls, asphalt paper,
 and 1/4" cement board sandwiched between 1"x wood trim.
The plan is to tile over the cement board but it was nice enough to leave as it was or paint.
The cement board was a bit of an experiment for me to look for options for exterior siding.
It is much faster than stucco for small spaces, such as we have here.


I added metal pans to the window sills to protect the bottom plate
 and then started putting stops for the windows which I was getting ready to build.

In the next post we will look at the finish- windows, tiles, and interior woodworking.

The series to date:


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